1.)   Drain the water out of the toilet and turn the water off so that it cannot refill the bowl.

2.)   Make sure that you put gloves on before you begin, for you will be using harsh chemicals and you do not want to burn your skin.

3.)   Get a toilet ring remover pad.  You can find these pads in any store where cleaning supplies are sold.

4.)   Start by spraying the stain with a rust remover.  Consider purchasing a stain remover that is very strong and is recommended for iron stains.

5.)   Scrub the stain with the pad and continue adding rust remover as you move along the inside of the bowl. 

6.)   Repeat the process until you get the results that you desire. 

7.)   Turn the water back on and let the toilet refill. 

It can take a lot of time and elbow grease to get rust stains out of your toilet.  Because of this, you will want to keep your toilet cleaned once the stain is gone. Repeat the steps above, but with not as strong chemical, once a month to ensure the iron stains do not come back. You do not want to have to go through this entire process again with a strong stain.  

Harsh water can cause rust stains on a regular basis and continuing to use harsh chemicals for cleaning your toilet can be damaging for your septic system.  So, you will want to clean your toilet regularly in order to avoid rust build up in the toilet.

1. Turn off the water supply and drain the tank so you may disconnect the water supply pipe. For a bowl-mounted tank remove the tank bolts and gaskets left off the tank. For a wall-mounted tank, remove the connection pipe by loosening the pipe couplings.

2. Then unscrew the locknut under the tank and remove the lift wires, guide rod and stopper. Now left out the valve and overflow tube.

3. Assemble the gasket on the new flush valve by inserting the assembly through the tank bottom. Position the overflow tube and assemble the conical gasket locknut. Once complete, tighten.

4. Slip the guide rod and collar down the overflow tube to install a stopper with lift wires. Once the guide rod is centered over the valve seat, tighten the adjustment the screw.

5. Hook the upper lift wire onto the tip lever. Than slide the lower lift wire down through the upper wire and guide rod. While using the adjustment screw, adjust the rod’s height.

6. So the stopper will droop straight down, screw the tank stopper onto the lower lift wire. Replace the bowl-refill tube and reconnect the tank then reverse the above steps.

Preventive maintenance around your home is to keep your home in good  repair.  Such routine home maintenance will avoid major repairs in the future. Below is a list of the most common year round home maintenance work you should do around your home. The chart is simply a guide. If you notice a problem developing take action immediately.

CAUTION: Before inspecting or working on any electrical system or on any device connected to it, shut off the power and check to make sure the circuit is dead with a circuit tester. Unplug any device you plan to work on. For maintenance or repairs to plumbing fixtures or water using appliances you should shut off the water before making any repairs. Follow safety tips when on the roof.

Hot Water Heating System

Forced Warm-Air Heating System

Evaporative Air Conditioner

Heat Pump

Refrigerated Air Conditioner Make sure extinguisher is fully charged and recharge if necessary.Test batteries with a lit cigarette or incense. Replace  batteries if necessary.Clean out debris, such as hair, from the sink and tub stoppers.Flush with hot water and baking soda to clear out the garbage disposal.Check safety valve and steam pressure gauge. Check water level gauge and add water if water level is to low. Drain water until water runs clear of deposits.

Test relief valve and replace if needed. Check pressure gauge and drain expansion tank if necessary.

Clean or replace air filter.

Check or replace blankets; check air flow; clean unit if necessary.

Clean or replace air filter. Clean condenser, evaporator coils and condensate drain. Remove any snow or debris form the unit.

Clean filter, condenser and evaporator coils and condensate drain or replace if necessary. Every 2 Months Oil BurnerWall FurnaceDishwasher Inspect and clean oil burner.Clean Grills from wall furnace.Clean grease filter in dishwasher. Every 3 Months FaucetTub Drain AssemblyFloor Drain StrainerDishwasher Clean aerator portion of the faucet.Clean out debris and see if rubber seal need to be replaced.Clean out debris and scrub strainer clean.Clean strainer, spray arm, and air gap within the dishwasher. Every 6 Months Basement and FoundationToiletInterior CaulkingWater HeaterGarbage Disposer

Clothes Washer

Clothes Dryer

Refrigerator

Wiring

Exhaust Fan

Range Hood Fan Check for cracks and moisture and repair if cracks or moisture is found.Check for leaks.Inspect caulking around tubs, showers, and sinks to see if any  are deteriorating.Drain and flush hot water heater tank until is clear of sediment. Inspect flue assembly.Tighten drain connections and fasteners from sink to disposer.

Clean water inlet filters and check hoses for leaking.

Vacuum lint from ducts and surrounding areas.

Clan drain hole and pan. Wash door gasket and vacuum off condenser coils.

Check for frayed cords and wires. Repair any damages at once.

Clean grill and fan blades from dust and debris.

Wash fan blades and housing off.

Preventive maintenance around your home is to keep your home in good  repair.  Such routine home maintenance will avoid major repairs in the future. Below is a list of the most common year round home maintenance work you should do around your home. The chart is simply a guide. If you notice a problem developing take action immediately.

CAUTION: Before inspecting or working on any electrical system or on any device connected to it, shut off the power to your home and check to make sure the circuit is dead with a circuit tester. Unplug any device you plan to work on. For maintenance or repairs to plumbing fixtures or water using appliances you should shut off the water before making any repairs.

In the chart listed below are the major categories of caulks and sealants that are used for repairs around the home. Many Caulks and Sealants offer a variety similar characteristic and categories. To choose the best type for a particular job, consult the chart below.

Silicone Rubber: For interior/exterior home use on moving joints. Works well on metal, glass, masonry, tile, porcelain, and ceramic.

Polyurethane Sealants: Good for sealing cracks and for glazing. Works well with wood, masonry glass, and metal.

Polyurethane Foams: Seals interior/exterior cracks when used with a primer on unpainted wood and masonry.

Butyl Rubber: Joins like materials inside and outside of the home. Bonds well to metals, works well when fixing repairs with gutters and flashing.

Acrylic Latex: Good for narrow interior joints and for nonmoving exteriors. Joints well around painted doors and windows.

Plumbing Repair Tools

Tools you’ll need for plumbing repairs include some that are part of your homeowner toolbox collection and some you may want to add to it. Among the basic tools that you should have on hand are Standard/Phillips screwdrivers for faucet screws, adjustable and open-end wrenches for nuts and bolts, and rib-joint pliers to remove some fixtures. You may also need a set of Allen wrenches for setscrews and a hacksaw blade to cut off any rusted on bolts.

 Additional plumbing tools fall into three categories: Drain-clearing tools, Wrenches and Job-specific tools.

Drain-Clearing Tools: These three tolls are used to clear plumbing clogs, like hair clogs, in fixtures and drains:

1. Plunger: A plunger uses exchangeable pressure and suction to unclog drains and plumbing fixtures. The funnel cup types are intended for toilets, but it can fold flat for drains as well.
2. Snake: A snake, drain and trap auger, comes available in lengths from 10-75 feet. The snake stretches into a drain and clears deep clogs within pipes. By locking the snake’s thumbscrew and tuning the handle will drive the corkscrew-like tip into the clog and releasing the blockage.
3. Closet Auger: A closet auger is designed especially for toilets; it’s bent into the toilet’s trap.

Wrenches: You may need some addition wrenches then what you have that are specialized for plumbing:

1. Spud Wrenches: With its wide, smooth jaws, this wrench is useful for unfastening extra large nuts and fixtures on sinks and toilets.
2. Pipe Wrenches: With serrated jaws for gripping fittings and galvanized or cat-iron pipe. Use them in pairs on pipes. One wrench holds one section of pipe as the other turns the pipe or fitting.
3. Basin Wrenches: With its long handle you can reach out-of-the-way couplings and nuts. Its jaws allow you to tighten or lessen nuts as well.

Job-Specific Tools: Certain jobs call for very specialized tools:

1. Valve-Seat Wrenches: And valve-seat dresser is tools you will need for compression faucets. A valve-seat has both a hexagonal and a square end to remove valve seats. A valve-seat dresser cleans corroded seats and smoothes pitted non-removable seats.
2. Deep-Socket Wrenches: This wrench will remove the hard-to-reach packing nut on a tub or faucet.

To unclog the toilet, first dump out or add water so that the bowl is half full. Then use a funnel-cup plunger, this is specifically designed to fit the bowl’s trap. If the plunger does not clear the clog, use a closet auger. The closet augers curved tip reaches more deep-set clogs and its protective cover won’t scratch the bowl.

Funnel-Cup: Use a funnel-cup plunger to free a clog in the toilet trap. Swiftly pump the plunger a dozen times or more to push the clogged obstruction through the toilet trap.

Closet Auger: Use a closet auger to break up a deep-set clog in the toilet trap. Maneuver the auger while simultaneously pushing it and turning the handle to push out the clogged trap.

Quick Fix-Up:

Preventing an Overflow: If a toilet is about to overflow, swiftly reach into the tank; push the tank stopper down into the valve seat and hold it as you turn off the water valve.

• Noisy tank fill

Possible Causes:

• Defective inlet-valve assembly
• Restricted water supply

Possible Fixes:

• Oil trip lever, replace faulty washers, or install new inlet-valve assembly
• Adjust shutoff valve

II. Problem:

• Running toilet

Possible Causes:

• Float arm not rising high enough
• Water-filled float ball
• Tank stopper not seating correctly
• Corroded flush valve seat
• Cracked overflow tube
• Inlet valve doesn’t shut off

Possible Fixes:

• Bend float arm down or away from tank wall
• Replace ball
• Adjust stopper guide rod and left wires or chain
• Replace defective stopper
• Scour valve seat or replace it altogether
• Replace tube or install new flush-valve assembly
• Oil trip lever, replace faulty washers, or install new inlet-valve assembly

III. Problem:

• Clogged toilet

Possible Causes:

• Blockage in drain

Possible Fixes:

• Remove blockage with plunger
• Remove blockage with plumbers snake
• Remove blockage with chemical cleaners

IV. Problem:

• Inadequate flush

Possible Causes:

• Faulty linkage between handle and trip lever
• Tank stopper closes before tank empties
• Leak between tank and bowl
• Clogged flush passages

Possible Fixes:

• Tighten setscrew on handle linkage, or replace handle assembly
• Adjust stopper guide rod and left wires or chain
• Tighten tank bolts or couplings, or replace gasket
• Clear obstructions from passages with wire

V. Problem:

• Sweating tank

Possible Causes:

• Condensation

Possible Fixes:

• Install rubber foam or polystyrene pads for tank insulation

Repairing toilet tank sweat and condensation

Toilet tank sweating often occurs during the summer time, when cold water in the tank cools the porcelain, and warm, moist air condenses on the outside tank.  Tank sweating must be repaired because it contributes to mildew, subfloor rotting, and the loosening of floor tiles.

Toilet tank sweating is repaired by insulating the inside of the tank.  First drain the tank, then glue a liner made of foam rubber or polystyrene pads to the inside walls.

If your incoming water supply is colder than 50 degrees, one unfailing way to eliminate condensation is to raise the temperature of the tank water. Raising the water temperature is accomplished by installing a temperature valve, which mixes hot water with the cold water supplying the tank. A hot water line is most often located at a near by sink or tub.

For pad insulation, first drain the tank and dry it thoroughly. Measure the inside depth and width of the inside of the tank. Measure the height from the bottom of the tank to a point 1 inch above the overflow pipe. Cut four pieces of 1/2 inch thick polystyrene pad or foam rubber to fit the front and back and each side.

Trim one 1 inch from the width of the front and back pieces so they’ll but up against the side pieces. Cutout a flush-handle shape in the front piece for the flush-handle bracket, and make sure the inserts do not interfere with any moving parts. Apply a generous coating of rubber cement or silicone glue to the tank surfaces and press the pads in place firmly. Let the glue dry 24 hours, and then before refill the tank.

Potential toilet leaking points

Toilet leaks are a common problem, and are often times confused with simple tank sweating. Detecting a tank leak is the first step in repairing a toilet leak.

Potential toilet leaking points are where the toilet bowl connects to the toile, the water supply pipe, and the toilet base.

To stop a leak between the toilet tank and the toilet bowl, tighten the bolts in the tank.  If that doesn’t fix the leak, remove them and replace the gaskets.

If the bowl leaks around the base, you will have to remove the bowl and reseal it at the waste pipe.

Make sure you check for cracks all around the toilet; especially around the bolts and connection points.