• While mapping out your homes main water, gases and electric controls bring labels (or duck tape and a sharpie) to mark main valves/controls such as “Main Shutoff”.
• If you find most of your controls in a basement or closet, keep a flash light near the controls in case a blackout occurs in which you need to access the control panels.

Finding the Water Supply: You should find the water meter on the outside of your home near the water supply pipe the goes into the house. In new homes you will find a Gate Valve that works like a round handle faucet. Just like a faucet you will need to turn clockwise (left turn) to turn off the water flow. Counterclockwise (right turn) will restore the water flow.  Most water supply valves are hard to turn, so you may need to use a lubricant.

If you are in an older home, you may have a Ball Valve. Although they are more difficult to operate, they are sturdier and longer lasting. When the Ball Valve handle is parallel (in line with) to the pipe your valve is open and water is running. When you want to turn the water supply off to your home, make a quarter turn so that the handle and the pipe make a 90 degree angle. The Ball Valve only turns one way, so don’t force it if the handle will not turn.

Finding the Gas Supply: You know that meter outside your home that reads the amount natural gas your household uses, that is where you will find your shutoff valve for your gas. The shutoff valve is usually a small rectangular handle.  When the handle is parallel with the gas pipe, the gas is on. To turn the gas off, simply turn the handle perpendicular to the gas pipe.

 Finding the Electric Supply: Your electrical controls are usually located in a metal box that contains fuses, this box is called an Electric Service Panel or Breaker Box. The main electrical shut off can be found in the top portion of the Breaker Box, sometimes enclosed in a small access door within the Breaker Box, above all  other fuses or circuit breakers. Simply switch the main shut off switch to the off position to stop any flow of electricity to your home.

•  When winterizing your pipes you will need to turn off the main shut off valve or have the water company turn off water service to the home.  From the top floor and working down, open all of your faucets inside and outside of the home.

•  Once all the water has dripped for the taps, open the plug from the main water shut off and let it drain. Turn off the power/gas to the water heater and open the water heater drain valve.

•  To freeze proof the water system of your home, make sure to empty toilet bowls and tanks, remove the cleanout plugs on all the sink traps or remove the traps completely.

•  Once emptied, fill with low temperature windshield fluid. Repeat the same step with the basement floor drain and main house trap.

•  For tub and shower traps, add at least a quart of RV antifreeze or windshield fluid.

*Never place antifreeze or windshield fluid in a dishwasher or clothes washer.

Hot Water: The safest of the below methods for thawing frozen pipe is to wrap the pipe with rags and poor boiling water on it.
Heating Pad: Warp the length of the frozen pipe with a heating pad.

 
Hair Dryer: Used like a torch, a hair dryer will gently defrost the frozen pipe from the outside in.
Heat Lap:  For pipes situated behind any walls, floors or ceilings, beam a heat lamp 8 or more inches from the surface of the frozen pipe.

Preventive maintenance around your home is to keep your home in good  repair.  Such routine home maintenance will avoid major repairs in the future. Below is a list of the most common year round home maintenance work you should do around your home. The chart is simply a guide. If you notice a problem developing take action immediately.

CAUTION: Before inspecting or working on any electrical system or on any device connected to it, shut off the power and check to make sure the circuit is dead with a circuit tester. Unplug any device you plan to work on. For maintenance or repairs to plumbing fixtures or water using appliances you should shut off the water before making any repairs. Follow safety tips when on the roof.

If your shower head leaks where it meets the arm, you probably need to replace the washer. To replace the washer, loosen the collar using tape-wrapper rib joint pliers to avoid damaging the finish; then unscrew the head from the ring and remove the old washer with the new.

Weak water pressure from the shower head usually means there is a mineral buildup in the shower head. To remove buildup and restore water flow, clean outlet holes with a pin or unscrew a perforated face plate of the shower head and soak it overnight in vinegar. Once soaked over night scrub the face plate clean and rinse off.

If the shower head will not pivot with ease, check the washer for wear and tear. If the washer is fine than coat the swivel ball with petroleum jelly before reassembling the shower head.

Tip:

If the nuts and couplings are frozen in place, instead of using a wrench to force them loss, place penetrating oil on the connections. Wait half an hour, then loosen the nuts and couplings with a wrench.

Make sure you always have handy the tools to help with plumbing repairs. Most are need for the repairs that are mentioned above for fixing a faulty shower head.

Hot Water Heating System

Forced Warm-Air Heating System

Evaporative Air Conditioner

Heat Pump

Refrigerated Air Conditioner Make sure extinguisher is fully charged and recharge if necessary.Test batteries with a lit cigarette or incense. Replace  batteries if necessary.Clean out debris, such as hair, from the sink and tub stoppers.Flush with hot water and baking soda to clear out the garbage disposal.Check safety valve and steam pressure gauge. Check water level gauge and add water if water level is to low. Drain water until water runs clear of deposits.

Test relief valve and replace if needed. Check pressure gauge and drain expansion tank if necessary.

Clean or replace air filter.

Check or replace blankets; check air flow; clean unit if necessary.

Clean or replace air filter. Clean condenser, evaporator coils and condensate drain. Remove any snow or debris form the unit.

Clean filter, condenser and evaporator coils and condensate drain or replace if necessary. Every 2 Months Oil BurnerWall FurnaceDishwasher Inspect and clean oil burner.Clean Grills from wall furnace.Clean grease filter in dishwasher. Every 3 Months FaucetTub Drain AssemblyFloor Drain StrainerDishwasher Clean aerator portion of the faucet.Clean out debris and see if rubber seal need to be replaced.Clean out debris and scrub strainer clean.Clean strainer, spray arm, and air gap within the dishwasher. Every 6 Months Basement and FoundationToiletInterior CaulkingWater HeaterGarbage Disposer

Clothes Washer

Clothes Dryer

Refrigerator

Wiring

Exhaust Fan

Range Hood Fan Check for cracks and moisture and repair if cracks or moisture is found.Check for leaks.Inspect caulking around tubs, showers, and sinks to see if any  are deteriorating.Drain and flush hot water heater tank until is clear of sediment. Inspect flue assembly.Tighten drain connections and fasteners from sink to disposer.

Clean water inlet filters and check hoses for leaking.

Vacuum lint from ducts and surrounding areas.

Clan drain hole and pan. Wash door gasket and vacuum off condenser coils.

Check for frayed cords and wires. Repair any damages at once.

Clean grill and fan blades from dust and debris.

Wash fan blades and housing off.

Preventive maintenance around your home is to keep your home in good  repair.  Such routine home maintenance will avoid major repairs in the future. Below is a list of the most common year round home maintenance work you should do around your home. The chart is simply a guide. If you notice a problem developing take action immediately.

CAUTION: Before inspecting or working on any electrical system or on any device connected to it, shut off the power to your home and check to make sure the circuit is dead with a circuit tester. Unplug any device you plan to work on. For maintenance or repairs to plumbing fixtures or water using appliances you should shut off the water before making any repairs.

*This is recommended to be done by a professional.

Diagram of a typical residential plumbing system - Supply, drain, and venting systems.

The residential water supply system transports pressurized water from the water utility company (or a well on the property) into the house and all the way to the sink, toilet, bath tub, and other water using appliances such as the dishwasher and washing machine.

The residential water drain-waste system delivers used water and solid waste out of the house and into the sewer system or septic tank.

The residential water vent system transports noxious sewer gases away from the house and maintains appropriate pressure inside the drainpipes, also preventing the sewer gases from entering the house.

Once the water has entered the house, the main supply pipe divides into two branches – one for the cold water and one for the hot water. If a water softener is assembled into the water system, it should be either on the main water supply line before it divides, or on the branch supplying the water heater only.

Residential water system - Indoor plumbing diagram for a house

For most of their length, hot and cold water pipes run side by side together until they reach the proximity of the fixtures and appliances. There, risers connect the fixture or appliance to the water system. Risers are vertical metal or plastic tubes that connect the faucet to the water supply stop valve. Metal Flex Risers are corrugated because they bend easy. Risers are most always hidden inside the walls.

Water supply pipes are installed with a slight angle and they also angle back toward the lowest point so all pipes can be drained through a valve or spout at that point.

Many water using appliances and fixtures have their own shutoff valves. These permit you to shut off the water in order to make repairs without having to cut off the main water supply to the whole house.

HOW TO PREPARE FOR A WATER EMERGENCY

Everyone in the house should learn where all water shutoff valves are – both at the fixtures and at the main shutoff valve.