Plumbing Repair Tools

Tools you’ll need for plumbing repairs include some that are part of your homeowner toolbox collection and some you may want to add to it. Among the basic tools that you should have on hand are Standard/Phillips screwdrivers for faucet screws, adjustable and open-end wrenches for nuts and bolts, and rib-joint pliers to remove some fixtures. You may also need a set of Allen wrenches for setscrews and a hacksaw blade to cut off any rusted on bolts.

 Additional plumbing tools fall into three categories: Drain-clearing tools, Wrenches and Job-specific tools.

Drain-Clearing Tools: These three tolls are used to clear plumbing clogs, like hair clogs, in fixtures and drains:

1. Plunger: A plunger uses exchangeable pressure and suction to unclog drains and plumbing fixtures. The funnel cup types are intended for toilets, but it can fold flat for drains as well.
2. Snake: A snake, drain and trap auger, comes available in lengths from 10-75 feet. The snake stretches into a drain and clears deep clogs within pipes. By locking the snake’s thumbscrew and tuning the handle will drive the corkscrew-like tip into the clog and releasing the blockage.
3. Closet Auger: A closet auger is designed especially for toilets; it’s bent into the toilet’s trap.

Wrenches: You may need some addition wrenches then what you have that are specialized for plumbing:

1. Spud Wrenches: With its wide, smooth jaws, this wrench is useful for unfastening extra large nuts and fixtures on sinks and toilets.
2. Pipe Wrenches: With serrated jaws for gripping fittings and galvanized or cat-iron pipe. Use them in pairs on pipes. One wrench holds one section of pipe as the other turns the pipe or fitting.
3. Basin Wrenches: With its long handle you can reach out-of-the-way couplings and nuts. Its jaws allow you to tighten or lessen nuts as well.

Job-Specific Tools: Certain jobs call for very specialized tools:

1. Valve-Seat Wrenches: And valve-seat dresser is tools you will need for compression faucets. A valve-seat has both a hexagonal and a square end to remove valve seats. A valve-seat dresser cleans corroded seats and smoothes pitted non-removable seats.
2. Deep-Socket Wrenches: This wrench will remove the hard-to-reach packing nut on a tub or faucet.

• Noisy tank fill

Possible Causes:

• Defective inlet-valve assembly
• Restricted water supply

Possible Fixes:

• Oil trip lever, replace faulty washers, or install new inlet-valve assembly
• Adjust shutoff valve

II. Problem:

• Running toilet

Possible Causes:

• Float arm not rising high enough
• Water-filled float ball
• Tank stopper not seating correctly
• Corroded flush valve seat
• Cracked overflow tube
• Inlet valve doesn’t shut off

Possible Fixes:

• Bend float arm down or away from tank wall
• Replace ball
• Adjust stopper guide rod and left wires or chain
• Replace defective stopper
• Scour valve seat or replace it altogether
• Replace tube or install new flush-valve assembly
• Oil trip lever, replace faulty washers, or install new inlet-valve assembly

III. Problem:

• Clogged toilet

Possible Causes:

• Blockage in drain

Possible Fixes:

• Remove blockage with plunger
• Remove blockage with plumbers snake
• Remove blockage with chemical cleaners

IV. Problem:

• Inadequate flush

Possible Causes:

• Faulty linkage between handle and trip lever
• Tank stopper closes before tank empties
• Leak between tank and bowl
• Clogged flush passages

Possible Fixes:

• Tighten setscrew on handle linkage, or replace handle assembly
• Adjust stopper guide rod and left wires or chain
• Tighten tank bolts or couplings, or replace gasket
• Clear obstructions from passages with wire

V. Problem:

• Sweating tank

Possible Causes:

• Condensation

Possible Fixes:

• Install rubber foam or polystyrene pads for tank insulation

Repairing toilet tank sweat and condensation

Toilet tank sweating often occurs during the summer time, when cold water in the tank cools the porcelain, and warm, moist air condenses on the outside tank.  Tank sweating must be repaired because it contributes to mildew, subfloor rotting, and the loosening of floor tiles.

Toilet tank sweating is repaired by insulating the inside of the tank.  First drain the tank, then glue a liner made of foam rubber or polystyrene pads to the inside walls.

If your incoming water supply is colder than 50 degrees, one unfailing way to eliminate condensation is to raise the temperature of the tank water. Raising the water temperature is accomplished by installing a temperature valve, which mixes hot water with the cold water supplying the tank. A hot water line is most often located at a near by sink or tub.

For pad insulation, first drain the tank and dry it thoroughly. Measure the inside depth and width of the inside of the tank. Measure the height from the bottom of the tank to a point 1 inch above the overflow pipe. Cut four pieces of 1/2 inch thick polystyrene pad or foam rubber to fit the front and back and each side.

Trim one 1 inch from the width of the front and back pieces so they’ll but up against the side pieces. Cutout a flush-handle shape in the front piece for the flush-handle bracket, and make sure the inserts do not interfere with any moving parts. Apply a generous coating of rubber cement or silicone glue to the tank surfaces and press the pads in place firmly. Let the glue dry 24 hours, and then before refill the tank.