Four Easy Steps For Repairing Resilient Tile:
1. While keeping a fire extinguisher nearby, use a propane torch with a flame spreader to soften the adhesive under the damaged resilient tile. The tile should not be too hot to touch, but warm enough to loosen the adhesive beneath the damaged resilient tile. Pry up the damaged resilient tile by starting at a corner of the tile with a putty knife and left off.
 
2. Once the adhesive has hardened, scrape it up so the subfloor is level and clean.

3. Use a notched trowel to spread a thin, flat layer of adhesive on the subfloor.
 
4. Butt two adjacent edges of the new resilient tile against a pair of original adjacent tiles. Make sure you match any patterns. Press the replacing resilient tile in place and remove any smudges with a solvent and let the adhesive dry.

1. Turn off the water supply and drain the tank so you may disconnect the water supply pipe. For a bowl-mounted tank remove the tank bolts and gaskets left off the tank. For a wall-mounted tank, remove the connection pipe by loosening the pipe couplings.

2. Then unscrew the locknut under the tank and remove the lift wires, guide rod and stopper. Now left out the valve and overflow tube.

3. Assemble the gasket on the new flush valve by inserting the assembly through the tank bottom. Position the overflow tube and assemble the conical gasket locknut. Once complete, tighten.

4. Slip the guide rod and collar down the overflow tube to install a stopper with lift wires. Once the guide rod is centered over the valve seat, tighten the adjustment the screw.

5. Hook the upper lift wire onto the tip lever. Than slide the lower lift wire down through the upper wire and guide rod. While using the adjustment screw, adjust the rod’s height.

6. So the stopper will droop straight down, screw the tank stopper onto the lower lift wire. Replace the bowl-refill tube and reconnect the tank then reverse the above steps.

In 2007 Congress passed the Energy Independence & Security Act of 2007, which will aid the America people by transitioning to a more energy-efficient future by phasing out incandescent light bulbs between 2012 and 2014. By the removal of incandescent light bulbs from store shelves, homes and buildings within the next five years, the US will be saving billions of dollars each year of taxpayers’ money by reducing the amount of energy they consume.

This Act of Congress was designed to phase-out inefficient incandescent light bulbs to high-output, low-energy consumption bulbs like CFLs, LEDs, and halogens bulbs. Below you will find everything you will need to know about CFLs and LEDs, as well as what you need to know about the Energy Independence & Security Act of 2007 and how it will apply to you.

What are CFLs? Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs or CFL differ then an incandescent light bulb by the way if produces light. An incandescent bulb uses an electric current that runs through a wire filament and heats the filament until it starts to glow. A CFL uses an electric current that drives through a tube that contains argon and a small amount of mercury vapor. This process generates invisible ultraviolet light that reacts with the fluorescent coating within the tube, which then releases visible light.

What are the benefits of CFL? CFLs uses 75 percent less energy and will lasts about 10 times longer than an incandescent bulb. If every home in American replaced just one light in their home with a CFL light, enough energy would be saved to light more than 3 million homes for a year.

How do you save money with CFL? Compact fluorescent light bulbs will save you about $30 over its lifetime and pay for itself within 6 months.  Although the initial price of a CFL is more expensive than an incandescent light bulb, CFLs use 1/3 of the electricity than a regular light bulb and last up to 10 times as long. A single 18 watt CFL will save you about 570 kWh over its lifetime; at 8 cents per kWh that equals a $45 savings during the life of the bulb.

Do CFLs offer high-quality light? CFLs give out a warm inviting light unlike the “cool white” light of a fluorescent light bulb. The new electronically ballasted CFLs don’t flicker or hum and come in a variety of shapes and sizes unlike the old CFLs in the classic spiral shape.

Is the mercury in CFLs hazardous to my health? Mercury is a toxic metal that can lead to adverse health effects. A CFL bulb generally contains an average of 5 mg of mercury, that is about one-fifth of what is found in the average watch battery and less than 1/100th of the mercury found in an amalgam dental filling.* While the mercury in a compact fluorescent bulbs dose not poses a threat while in the bulb, however if you break one you should follow the steps below with caution:

- Open a window to air out the room for 15 minutes or more.

- Use a wet rag and gloves to pick up the broken pieces. Make sure to dispose the gloves and the rag, with the broken CFL, into a sealed plastic bag.

- Contact your nearest recycling center to see if they can accept broken CFLs.

- Make sure to wash your hands after you have disposed the broken compact fluorescent light bulb.

Burned out CFLs can be dropped off at your local Home Depot stores.

What are LED lights? Light Emitting Diodes are a solid light bulb which are enormously energy-efficient. Older models of LEDs were limited to a single-bulb usually found in your instrument panels, electronics, and more commonly the strings of indoor and outdoor Christmas lights.

What are the benefits of LEDs? Light Emitting Diodes last up to 10 times as long as compact fluorescents light bulbs and 20 times longer than the typical incandescent bulbs. LEDs are mercury-free and LEDs do not have a filament that can normally be easily damaged within the CFLs. Because they are built as a solid, LED bulbs hold up well.

How do you save money with LED? Because LEDs last for years, not only will you save money on energy coast, but you will save in maintenance and replacement costs far beyond the purchasing coast. Because LEDs require low power to run, using solar panels throughout your home becomes more reasonable.

So what does the Energy Independence & Security Act of 2007 mean to you?

•  The Act WILL NOT is requiring you to throw out your incandescent light bulbs.
•  Incandescent light bulbs between 40 and 100 watts will be phased out during 2012 and 2014.
•  The Act requires that all light bulbs sold must maintaining the same or greater light output and quality as an incandescent light bulb.
• Incandescent bulbs less than 40 watts or more than 150 watts including any appliance lamps, rough-service, 3-way bulbs, colored lamps and plant lights will be free from the Energy Independence & Security Act of 2007.

For more information regarding government rules and regulations surrounding this legislation such as ways to recycle light bulbs, energy-savings tips and other key topics, please visit: http://www.geconsumerandindustrial.com/environmentalinfo/

*Resource: http://www.eartheasy.com/live_energyeff_lighting.htm

 
Step One: Use the manual control handle on the automatic gas valve to turn off the gas to the main burner and pilot. Allow at least 5 minutes for built up gas to disperse before proceeding. Use extreme caution and take more time if your fuel is bottled gas; it doesn’t dissipate as quickly.

 
Step Two: Once the gas has dissipated, set the thermostat well below room temperature. Turn the manual control handle to PILOT and light the pilot, holding the handle there for a minute. Then release the handle and turn it to ON.

Adjusting the Pilot Flame: The Pilot flame should be blue and should cover the thermocouple. Before adjusting the flame turn the thermostat down and turn off the power to the system. Then reset the thermostat when done.

 
Cleaning the Pilot Orifice: One cause of trouble lighting the pilot light, is the orifice may be plugged. To clean the orifice, you will need to shut off the gas supply.

 Step One: Turn the gas inlet handle to a right angle with the pipe.

Step Two: Disconnect the thermocouple tube and the pilot gas line form the automatic gas valve.

Step Three: Remove the bracket holding the pilot and the thermocouple.

Step Four: Use a stiff wire brush to clean out the orifice and reattach the bracket, pilot gas line, and the thermocouple tube.

Step Five: Turn on the gas and relight the pilot light.

•  When winterizing your pipes you will need to turn off the main shut off valve or have the water company turn off water service to the home.  From the top floor and working down, open all of your faucets inside and outside of the home.

•  Once all the water has dripped for the taps, open the plug from the main water shut off and let it drain. Turn off the power/gas to the water heater and open the water heater drain valve.

•  To freeze proof the water system of your home, make sure to empty toilet bowls and tanks, remove the cleanout plugs on all the sink traps or remove the traps completely.

•  Once emptied, fill with low temperature windshield fluid. Repeat the same step with the basement floor drain and main house trap.

•  For tub and shower traps, add at least a quart of RV antifreeze or windshield fluid.

*Never place antifreeze or windshield fluid in a dishwasher or clothes washer.

Hot Water: The safest of the below methods for thawing frozen pipe is to wrap the pipe with rags and poor boiling water on it.
Heating Pad: Warp the length of the frozen pipe with a heating pad.

 
Hair Dryer: Used like a torch, a hair dryer will gently defrost the frozen pipe from the outside in.
Heat Lap:  For pipes situated behind any walls, floors or ceilings, beam a heat lamp 8 or more inches from the surface of the frozen pipe.

If you can see water flowing out of a crack in a wall or floor, you know that the source is ground water. If water is not flowing out of a crack, you’ll have to make a test for dampness in your basement to see if the water is due to condensation or water from the ground. To do this:

1. Cut two 12in squares of plastic sheeting or aluminum foil.
2. Tape a peace to the inside of one of the basement walls and the other to the basement floor.
3. Wait 2 days.
4. Remove the plastic or aluminum foil.
5. If the wall or floor that was covered by the square is dry then you have condensation. If the wall or floor that was covered by the squares are wet, you have a ground water leak.

Controlling Condensation In The Basement:

You will need to lower your basements air humidity by:

1. Raise the temperature in the basement.
2. Make sure all vents of moist air, like your clothes dryer, are vented to the outside.
3. Place a dehumidifier in the basement.
4. Insulate basement walls.
5. Insulate cold water pipes.
6. Open basement windows, weather permitting.

Controlling Ground Water Leaks In The Basement:

1. Gutters and downspouts should be directed to clear water away from the foundation of the home.
2. If you have a leaking crack, you will need to call a professional to fix the basement foundation.

•Add to any existing flower bed some colorful seasonal plants.
•Attach stylish new home address numbers.
•Install a new all-weather mailbox.
•At the entrance of your home placing a new welcome mat and a group of potted plants.
•Add inexpensive, trendy lighting fixtures along your driveway or sidewalk.
•Clean your homes siding.

Can’t afford to do all the above at one time? Thank is ok; space the tasks out over a timeline. Give yourself three months, six months, or even a year to add curb appeal to your home. When the mission is complete, you can be satisfied with a job well done – not to mention not only did you add beauty to your home you also added value to your home.

Kitty litter. That’s right: Cleaning oil from the driveway with kitty litter is the most oft-recommended method for this type of stain removal. There is one additional material that is required when this method is implemented: dry cement. Don’t worry, you won’t be mixing it with water!

Fair warning: For best results, you should follow these steps, which will take approximately two days to complete. Again, there’s no need to worry; the job is actually very simple! To clean oil stains from concrete in five easy steps:

1. Spread a thick layer of kitty litter over the grease, and allow up to 24 hours for absorption.

2. Gently sweep the kitty litter away.

3. Cover the entire spot with dry cement.

4. Allow another 24 hours for the cement’s absorption effect.

5. Gently sweep away the dirty cement.

Gather dirty cement in a bag and throw it away (in a trash receptacle only – do not flush down the toilet or sink!).

The result? A clean driveway! Before long, you’ll be cleaning an oil stain from concrete like a pro.

To clean marble, wash occasionally with lukewarm water and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Also, wiping surface with a damp chamois will not leave streaks. A mild detergent solution (such as dishwashing detergent) can be used once or twice per year; if you choose to deep clean marble this way, be sure to rinse well and pat dry.

Are there other marble care products that can be used? A light coat of wax will protect the surface of marble, but is not essential and must be applied carefully. It should be a colorless wax; and, should only be used on colored marble (white marble will likely yellow from waxing). Finally, a marble sealer can be applied to clean marble, which will protect from staining and allow soil to be removed with a damp cloth.

These easy marble care tips should ensure that homeowners can enjoy their marble surfaces more, and for longer periods of time. Extend the life of your marble, increase the quality and value of your home!