1.) You will need to get the carpet up off of the floor and then get it taken outside where it can begin to air out.  This is very important because you want to get the padding underneath of it out so you can replace it.  You do not want any mold growing under there.

2.) Clean the carpet with fresh, clear water so that it any dirt and residue will be removed.

3.) Use a good cleaner to clean the hard wood floor and run fans over the hard wood floor so that it will dry more quickly. You may need to replace any molding tongue and groove boards.

4.) Let the carpet air out for several days in order to ensure that it is completely dry.  You will only be defeating the purpose if you put it back while it is still wet.

5.) Place new padding on the floor and then tack the carpet back into place.

It is possible to save your carpet after you have experienced water damage.  However, you need to remember that it will be labor intensive and it will be time consuming.  If you do not have the time to do this work, or you just do not want to,  you might want to call a professional.

If you notice that the flow of water from the spray is sluggish, first make sure the hose is not kinked. If the spray hose is not kinked, then you may need to clean the aerator in the spray nozzle. If the water flow remains sluggish after you have cleaned the aerator, you may have a diverter valve problem. You’ll have to clean or replace the diverter. 

If the spray head leaks however, you just need to replace the washer from the hose. For a leak at the faucet end of the spray hose, tighten the hose coupling. For a hose that leaks itself you probably have a cracked hose and will need to replace it.

Three common problems of a sink spray and how to fix them:

Clogged Spray Nozzle: Remove the nozzle screw and clean the perforated disc with a soapy water and small scrub brush. Open the clogged holes of the nozzle with a safety pin. Replace the nozzle.

Leaking Spray Head: With the water off, unscrew the spray head and replace the spray washer. Make sure the coupling is tightened once you reattach the spray head. 

Leaking Spray Hose: Remove the spray hose with a basin wrench. Remove the coupling under the sink along with the spray-head coupling. Replace the hose with a new one and reattach the spray head coupling and the sink coupling.

How to Clean the Diverter Valve: Unscrew the sinks faucet cap to reach the diverter. Make sure you know how to take apart a faucet.  Loosen the screw that is on top of the diverter just enough that the diverter is loose to lift it out of the faucet. Once you have the whole diverter out, take it apart for cleaning. Use soapy water and a small scrub brush to clean the inside and out of the diverter. If the diverter is too corroded you may need to replace it. Once you have cleaned the diverter or had purchased a new one, you are ready to reinsert it into the faucet.

1. Turn off the water supply and drain the tank so you may disconnect the water supply pipe. For a bowl-mounted tank remove the tank bolts and gaskets left off the tank. For a wall-mounted tank, remove the connection pipe by loosening the pipe couplings.

2. Then unscrew the locknut under the tank and remove the lift wires, guide rod and stopper. Now left out the valve and overflow tube.

3. Assemble the gasket on the new flush valve by inserting the assembly through the tank bottom. Position the overflow tube and assemble the conical gasket locknut. Once complete, tighten.

4. Slip the guide rod and collar down the overflow tube to install a stopper with lift wires. Once the guide rod is centered over the valve seat, tighten the adjustment the screw.

5. Hook the upper lift wire onto the tip lever. Than slide the lower lift wire down through the upper wire and guide rod. While using the adjustment screw, adjust the rod’s height.

6. So the stopper will droop straight down, screw the tank stopper onto the lower lift wire. Replace the bowl-refill tube and reconnect the tank then reverse the above steps.

If you can see water flowing out of a crack in a wall or floor, you know that the source is ground water. If water is not flowing out of a crack, you’ll have to make a test for dampness in your basement to see if the water is due to condensation or water from the ground. To do this:

1. Cut two 12in squares of plastic sheeting or aluminum foil.
2. Tape a peace to the inside of one of the basement walls and the other to the basement floor.
3. Wait 2 days.
4. Remove the plastic or aluminum foil.
5. If the wall or floor that was covered by the square is dry then you have condensation. If the wall or floor that was covered by the squares are wet, you have a ground water leak.

Controlling Condensation In The Basement:

You will need to lower your basements air humidity by:

1. Raise the temperature in the basement.
2. Make sure all vents of moist air, like your clothes dryer, are vented to the outside.
3. Place a dehumidifier in the basement.
4. Insulate basement walls.
5. Insulate cold water pipes.
6. Open basement windows, weather permitting.

Controlling Ground Water Leaks In The Basement:

1. Gutters and downspouts should be directed to clear water away from the foundation of the home.
2. If you have a leaking crack, you will need to call a professional to fix the basement foundation.

Wood Putty: Wood putty is available in both stick or paste form. Wood Putty fills gouges, cracks and nail holes in wood. Putty can be sanded and painted over to hide any signs of a touch up or repair. Wood Putty comes in a multiple rang of colors to match most woods, but you may have to add extra coloring to the putty and bend to matching particular finishes.

Plaster Fills: Plaster Fills allow you to patch large or deep holes and cracks in plastered or gypsum walls. 

Spackling Compound: Spackling compound fills small cavities, narrow cracks, and nail holes within your walls.

Patching a crack and hole:

Fine cracks, nail holes, and small cuts in plaster walls usually can be repaired with spackling compound.

To patch a wide cracks or hole apply two layers of patching plaster fills plus a layer of fine textured finishing plaster. The first layer should lay more than half the depth of the hole, leaving enough space for the next tow layers. Let each layer need to be dried completely before adding the next layer.

To fill a hole without a base you’ll have to install a metal mesh or a ready made patch before adding the plaster fills.

Finishing the patch:

Matching an existing texture requires the treatment of the still-wet finishing plaster. You’ll have to experiment with the wet plaster to achieve a good match.

For a smooth surface, pull a metal gloat or wide putty knife dipped in water across the plaster. When the plaster is dry, sand to remove minor imperfections then prime and paint.

For textured surfaces, use a paintbrush, household sponge,  or a wire brush. Coat or swirl the plaster in a uniform random or overlapping pattern. To make peaks in the plaster use a brush or a tool with bristles. Once peaks start to stiffen up, gently drag a clean metal float over the surface of the plaster to smooth out the peaks. Once the plaster is dry, prime and paint.

1. Get everyone out of the house at once.
2. Use a neighbor’s phone or your cell phone, once you are away of from your home, to call the gas company or the fire department.
3. Don’t light a math or turn on/off any electrical switch. The danger of fire or an explosion is high. You should leave as many windows and doors open to help clear out the gas from the house.

Once you know everyone is safely out of your home, you can turn off the gas supply at the main gas shutoff valve. If you feel unsafe to turn off the gas shutoff valve, you can wait for the utility company to arrive to shut it off for you. The valve is usually located on the gas inlet pipe next to the gas meter. To shut off the gas, use an adjustable wrench to turn the gas shutoff valve a quarter-turn in either direction so that the valve flats are in a closed position. The valve should be perpendicular to the pipe.

Gas Shutoff Valve

Don’t turn the gas back on until you’ve discovered the source of the gas leak and have corrected it.

In the event of a natural disaster, you may have to turn off the gas supply to your home. Make sure you and all members of your family know the location of the gas shutoff valve and how to close it. To help your family identify the gas valve, attach a tie-on tag to the valve and label it Gas Shutoff Valve. Leave an adjustable wrench in a reachable location so it will be close at hand in the event of an emergency.