Here are some simple tips on how to repair your screen door: 

1. Be sure to ascertain how the original screen was attached. Is the original frame wooden, with the screen nailed or stretched into place, or metal, and stretched and screwed into place?

2. Measure the original piece of screen and how large the piece was, and how much overlap must be provided to enable the screen to be fastened back to its frame.

3. Determine if any additional parts are required for the repair and have them on hand as you work.

4. Perform any incidental maintenance to the door that can be completed at the same time as the screen replacement.

5. Consider painting the door if  it has a wood frame; the effect will be to  have a completely new door once the door is repaired and painted with the new screen in place. 

The flexibility of a screen door at your home is a pleasant amenity and will permit you to enjoy beautiful weather from inside the house. Enjoy the beauty of summer days and cool nights through your screen door.

Damaged board paneling reacts well to a variety of techniques for repairing minor scratches and slashes, dents, and even deep gouges. But if the damaged paneling is too severe, you may want to replace one or more of the damaged tongue and groove boards. Be sure to carefully match any new paneling and its finish with neighboring boards. Below are 7 easy steps to follow for replacing a damaged Tongue-and- Grove board within your home.

Step One: Place a pry-bar between the baseboard and wall. Once there is a gap between the board and the wall, place wood wedges in the gap. Pry off the baseboard and remove the remaining nail with a hammer.

Step Two: With a circular saw, saw down the center of the damaged Tongue-and-Groove board. Once the board is sawed in two, split the ends using a chisel.

Step Three: Use a broad-blade pry-bar to wedge off the sections of the board from the wall one side at a time.

Step Four: Next cut the replacement board to length with the damaged Tongue-and-Groove board by placing the damaged board over the replacement and mark the correct length with a pencil.

Step Five: Using a mallet to hold the new board, use blocks of wood to protect the surface of the new Tongue-and-Groove board, and cut off the back of the boards groove with a wood chisel.

Step Six: Starting at the ceiling, fit the replacement board with the damaged old board’s adjacent neighbor and slip in into place. Continue fitting in the tongue with the adjacent board until you reach the flooring.

Step Seven: Using a padded block and soft cloth, tap the new board in place. Add finishing nails to the top and bottom of the new Tongue-and-Groove board. Make sure to fill in the nail holes with wood putty and finish for appearance. Once you have replaced the baseboard, you have completed replacing a damaged Tongue-and-Groove board.

How to maintain and inspect you homes siding:

Inspecting Your Homes Siding: Look for obvious problems such as warped boards, missing or damaged shingles, holes in stucco, crumbling mortar, cracks in your home’s exterior paint. Don’t ignore problems such as dry rot and termite damage. Dry rot and termite damage is the most serious damages that can accrue and may eventually destroy your house.

Begin with a visual inspection of your home: The following is a list of problems and solutions to guide you through a visual inspection of your homes siding:

Deteriorated caulking: Make a note of any caulking that had dried out and need to be re-caulked. Check the seals around windows and doors and where a deck or fireplaces adjoins to the house. If any cracks in a boarded siding are found, you should caulk them.

Defective Paint: Repaint any defective areas of paint. If necessary, repaint all of the siding.

Cracks: Long, vertical cracks in masonry walls may be a result of settling. To find if the crack is due to settling of your home, place tape over a crack and leave it in place of several months. If the tape twists or splits, this may mean you your foundation is settling and you should consult a professional to determine if there a serious structural problem. If the tap is still in place all that is need to be done is to repair the crack.

Mildew: Combination of heat and humidity may lead to mildew on wood and painted surfaces. To retard mildew see how to clean your homes siding.

Efflorescence: Brick or stone veneer may become covered in efflorescence. Efflorescence is a white powder formed when water-soluble salts are washed to the surface. On an old wall, this may indicate a leak. Cleaning the siding will remove the efflorescence.

Dry Rot and Termite Damage: Dry rot is a fungus that causes wood to crumble. Termites destroy wood by crewing out its interior. Both can work away at wood timbers and siding.

To detect damage by termites, probe the edges of wood siding with a knife to look for soft, spongy spots. Pay special attention to any part of the siding that’s close to or in contact with the ground. Check for visible evidence of termites by looking for any bug that has translucent 1/2 inch-long wings. If you find any mud tubes this also may be a sign of termites.

If you find evidence of dry rot or termites, consult a licensed termite inspector at once.

In the chart listed below are the major categories of caulks and sealants that are used for repairs around the home. Many Caulks and Sealants offer a variety similar characteristic and categories. To choose the best type for a particular job, consult the chart below.

Silicone Rubber: For interior/exterior home use on moving joints. Works well on metal, glass, masonry, tile, porcelain, and ceramic.

Polyurethane Sealants: Good for sealing cracks and for glazing. Works well with wood, masonry glass, and metal.

Polyurethane Foams: Seals interior/exterior cracks when used with a primer on unpainted wood and masonry.

Butyl Rubber: Joins like materials inside and outside of the home. Bonds well to metals, works well when fixing repairs with gutters and flashing.

Acrylic Latex: Good for narrow interior joints and for nonmoving exteriors. Joints well around painted doors and windows.

Screw

For the best result drill a pilot hole for a screw in soft wood. Choose a drill bit with the same diameter of the screws shank and drill only as deep as the length of the unthreaded shank. If drilling into hardwood, drill a smaller hole below the shank hole for the threads as well. This hole should be half as deep as the threaded portion. Next use a drill bit a little smaller in the diameter than the screw’s shaft.

You can countersunk a flathead screw so that it sit flush with the surface. However, sometime the screw will be sunk a little deeper and you can cover the head with a dowel plug or with wood putty.

An electric drill’s combination bit can create counterbore, countersink, and pilot holes all in one maneuver. However, you can get the same result with a three drill bit.

1. One equal to the screw’s head diameter
2. One equal to the screw’s shank diameter
3. One equal to the screw’s shaft diameter

Drill to hold the shaft, shank, and head of a wood screw; if necessary, counterbore with a plug or putty