Curled Shingle: To Flatten a curled shingle, apply roofing cement under the lifted portion of the shingle and then press the curled shingle in place. Tack with roofing nails and cover nail heads with roofing cement.

Hairline Crack: Seal a fine crack with roofing cement or asphalt paint. Place the roofing cement or asphalt paint along the crack with a putty knife. Cement is also sold in cartridges and can be applied with a caulking gun for your convenience.
Tear: Liberally spread roofing cement underneath the tear. Press the shingle back in place and nail each side of the tear with roofing nails. Cover nails and the tear with roofing cement.

Downspout Extenders: An extender are attach directly to the downspout. Extenders are made from aluminum, galvanized steel, or vinyl. They are constructed to carry the water away from the house, often into a drain. You can purchase a downspout extender at any home improvement center.

Splashblocks: An alternative to downspout extenders, splashblocks are placed below the elbow of the downspout. Splashblocks are ready-made with concrete or plastic. Ideally, the splashblock should extend at least 4 feet and should be slightly sloped so that the water runs well ahead of the house foundation. 

Dry Wells: If you live in a wet climate, you may want to connect your downspouts to a dry well. Locate the dry well 10 or more feet from your home. The well itself can be merely a hole 2 to 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep. Or you can bury a 55-gallon drum after piercing it with holes and removing both ends. Fill the well with rocks or broken concrete, and then cover the top with a wood plank or heavy roofing paper. The well’s top should be at least 18 inches under ground with the bottom above the water table.
The underground drainage pipes should slope ¼ to ½ inch per foot. This allows the water flow from the house downspout to the dry well.

1. While wearing protective gloves, remove debris from gutter troughs, like leaves, twigs, and mud. Loosen stuck on mud by scrubbing with a stiff brush. Rinse down leftover debris out through the downspout.

2. Place a garden hose two inches within the top of the downspout and turned the hose on full force, clearing blockage from downspout. If the clog is to jammed feed a plumbers snake into the downspout and loosen remaining partials. Once the plumbers snake has unclogged the remaining debris, rinse the downspout out with the hose once more.

3. To maintain a clean and clear gutter place a leaf strainer within the gutter to allow water to filter through leafs and other debris. Or purchase a mesh screen to place over the gutter. This deflects leaves and twigs from entering the gutter while water is still allowed to pass through.
When you find your gutter is clear from debris but still is not flushing the water out properly you may have a broken gutter. Here are three easy ways to fix the most common gutter issues; leaky joints, small hole, and a hole larger than a half inch.

Leaky Joint Repair Gutter

1. Leaky Joint: Seal the leaky gutter joint between the adjoining sections on both the inside and outside of the gutter with either a butyl-rubber caulking or a silicone-rubber sealant.

2. Small Holes: Patch the small hole in the gutter with a thin coat of roofing cement. Us a putty knife to spread the thin layer of roofing cement well beyond the hole in all directions.

3. Larger Holes Over Half Inch: Repair a larger hole with the same process you would for repairing a small hole in the gutter. Then add a sheet-metal patch on top of the thin layer of roofing cement. Once set, add another thin layer of roofing cement on the patch using a putty knife.